I packed water and oranges in my trusty Lao shoulder bag and set out.
Leaving the town, I was alone on a high ridge, walking a rough, rock strewn road, looking out over the Lao hills. The landscape below me was composed of alternating stands of jungle, scrub and tea plantations. Phongsali is famous for its green tea cultivation.
The views were wonderful as I hiked along the shaded hillside, the shade being a luxury I knew I would not have on the return.
Lizards skittered into the verge, and dazzling varieties of butterflies and flowers brightened the way. At one point a small stream came down the hillside and water buffalo were wallowing just above me. It is eerie having such massive animals, with great huge horns, just over your shoulder as you walk by. I employed discretion rather than valour and did not linger for a photo.
I met several villagers along the way. They were all curious and polite, and some were very friendly. Then I met my first village kid.
After exchanging the required Sabaidee, the young boy asked me for "a pen-sill". Lao, like Thai, does not really have polysyllabic words, so english words are broken down into separate words when Lao people are trying to speak english without the benefit of any training.
Pencils! I had heard that in Burna, all of the kids ask for pencils. I had an extra pen in my travel bag, and gladly rendered it up. It seemed most satisfactory.
I passed through the first village, a sleepy little collection of traditional stilt huts, and continued on. Within a kilometer, I met about a dozen kids and their teacher on the way to the village school. Sabaidee and Pen-Sills was the chorus. I felt a fool and replied, regretfully, that I had no pencils. Not one kid asked me for kip.
The second village hove into sight and, once I was spotted, the falang alarm was sounded. A posse of kids descended on me, laughing and wanting pencils. Alas.
We had a short and very steep game of football on the village path, with the worst soccer ball I have ever seen. I promised that "meu eun pen-sills". Tomorrow, pencils.
I walked the four miles back to town in the heat of the afternoon. I went straight to the market and, after searching a few stalls, bought twenty pencils, all they had. Then I found a stall with boxes of pencils and bought two. Sixty pencils in all. The next item on the shopping list was a new soccer ball.
Grinning from ear to ear, I scuttled back to my room to stash my loot. Tomorrow I am doing the same hike again, but this time I will be ready for them!
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