Done

It was as painless as one could hope for. An easy flight from Luang Prabang, Laos, to Bangkok. I had to check my bag for the small plane, something I never do. The smiling Lao folks asked me if I wished to check it all the way to Seattle. Bag free for three transfers? Not have to pass customs at Bangkok? OK, I'll risk it.

Real chocolate in Bangkok. Expensive tea. An easy connection onto Eva Air and on to Taipei.

I drew a great seat mate, an American returning from two plus years in Cambodia. We blabbed all the way to Taipei and right up to our respective gates. Easey-peasy. Four hours is nothing.

A quick transfer onto the long flight, Taipei to Seattle. Eleven hours. So, eat the meal, pop an Ambien, sleep for six hours, wake up, eat the food, land. That's it.

Now, I am back on the freezing waters of Puget Sound instead of the warm chocolate of the Nam Ou. Literally on the Sound, as I take the ferry from Seattle towards the Fortress.

It is going to be a frosty walk home from the ferry dock to the homestead formerly known as the Fortress of Solitude.

Full circle. I walked to the ferry outbound. It seems only fitting.

Lagon

It is time to board the jeep, the first stage of the long trek back to Seattle.

I fly from Luang Prabang to Bangkok, then switch to EVA Air and fly Bangkok to Taipei. After a short layover in Taipei, I continue on to Seattle, arriving 5:45 PM Pacific Time. That's about ten minutes after I leave Bangkok, by Bangkok time.

24 hours of traveling in ten minutes time. Pretty cool trick!!

Ok, shoulder the bag.

Sent from the Borg Device

Bad Luck

If you are a member of the Akha Hill Tribes in Laos, giving birth to a set of twins is not a good thing.

In the Akha tradition, a set of twins, born to a village family, brings very bad luck to the entire village. There are serious consequences.

Tradition dictates that the infant twins are killed. The family that the twins were born to are banished to live alone, in the jungle, for three years. All of the livestock owned by the family are destroyed, as are their buildings.

After the three year banishment has expired, the family may move back into the village and resume normal life.

I do not write about this to pass judgement, but only to note the existence of this fascinating, yet seemingly brutal, custom.

Like many hill tribe traditions, the ban on twin births is fading as the more modern Lao culture permeates hill tribe practices. It is, however, still adhered to by some village groups in Northern Laos.

There are many different tribal groups in Laos, as well as across much of SE Asia. Over the last two journeys, I have been to Akha, Hmong, Khmer, Black Tai, White Tai and Khmu villages, as well as others. There are a dizzying array of tribal languages, divisions and subdivisions, cultures and beliefs. Animism mixes with Buddhism and ancestry veneration to create a mosaic of religious belief.

One unifying quality that I encountered in every village was the unfailing generosity of the people I met, even in villages suffering extreme poverty.

I will be very happy when I next have the opportunity to visit a Lao village.

Last Supper

This is the last Lao dinner for this journey. Khone's red curry is a thing of beauty.

I have been invited back to teach English in the community. It is a nascent dream, but it's strength is building.

In the meantime, I have to master Lao, with all it's frustrating tonality. But that only requires expending the effort.

Disparity

Here is todays luncheon feast. What you see is Lao BBQ with vege and sticky rice. Purchased at a small street stand, unfrequented by falang, this repast set me back 27,000 kip, about $ 3.50 US.

Later in the day, espresso drinks for two, in a Euro cafe in the old quarter, came to 47,000 kip.

Lao people don't frequent the Cafe.

Rules

Over time, I have developed a few rules for rough travel. Here they are, so far:

1) Always carry a bandanna. It's a dusk mask, sun shade, hat and bandage, all in one.

2) Take your shoes off on the boat. You may have to swim.

3) If all the locals are getting off the bus to pee, you should too.

4) Ziplock bags. If its important, use two.

5) Any recommended guest house will likely be full. Deal with it.

6) If you haven't paid the money yet, no one will leave you behind. If you have, they might.

7) Unless you are an Englishman or a mad dog, carry a hat.

8) Dirt is organic.

9) Never carry all your money in the same pocket.

10) First-Aid kit. Have it and you won't need it.

11) Carry a seat cushion, the little Therma-Rest kind. Trust me on this.

12). Keep your camera strap around your wrist or neck. Thieves. Water. Heights.

13) Drink two litres of water every day.

14) Zip all zippers shut right after you open them. Really. Especially those zippers on the cool "secret" pocket of your explorer type shirts and pants. You know, the one with your passport in it.

Secrets

Even a busy little tourist Mecca such as Luang Prabang has oases of solitude. Last year, I found this shady nook in the back of a seldom visited Wat. Today, it was particularly lovely.