Elbows and Hot Pot

As if the evening could not get better....

Today was a lazy Sunday, even by the standards of a small provincial Thai city. I whiled away the morning hours on a veranda overlooking the river. Breakfast turned into a round of discussions with two Canadian gents and lasted hours. Some verandas are just like that; time disappears.

In an amazing burst of energy, I managed to walk the quarter mile to the clock tower and city park, where I sat out the heat of the day with a cigar.

I followed this strenuous activity with an hour of traditional Thai massage. Thai massage is sort of a mix of shiatsu, acupressure, and torture. One does not know how truly alive one can be until a strong Thai woman places one's calf in a wrestlers lock, and then drives her elbow into one's sole. The wresting hold is to prevent escape and add leverage. It is unbelievable how many nerve ends there are in the bottom of one's feet. I was pushed, pulled, and pummeled into submission. The head massage was sublime, including the massage work right up to, and almost in, my eye sockets.

An hour massage, including a good gratuity, was seven US dollars. THIS is a great country. Another plus, besides a truly fantastic massage, was the amusement my farang presence caused amongst the massage ladies and the other Thai clients. Everyone was very gracious to me, albeit a bit giggly.

As I staggered about the narrow streets of Lamphang, happy and delirious, I realized how hungry I was. What better way to recover from an ass-whooping, such as I had just received, than with multiple curries?

When a single curry simply won't do, it is time to head to the hot pot place. Out front, huge earthen crocks filled with ten different curries are simmering away. There are enough bubbling mixtures to put Macbeth's witches to shame.

I chose a fiery red fish curry (I was warned), a green curry and a savory fish ball stew. Add some greens to cool the curry heat and it's a party. Who doesn't like a table full of little pots of lovely Thai food.

The night market is in full swing and it's time to hunt up some dessert. So much food, so little time.