Chao Phraya

Bangkok

The only viable means of transport in the Big Mango is by river. The Chao Phraya runs through Bangkok as an artery through the heart. And so i found myself, once again, as if with an old friend, traveling through the city.

While I waited for the Yellow boat to take me down river, some Thai folk were feeding scraps to the fish. The river around the pier was a seething mass of sharp finned catfish, writhing and flipping in the chocolate waters.

Two young Thai men sitting next to me we're ignoring the feeding frenzy and I followed their gaze. On a raft of flotsam weeds, just below us, was a huge aquatic lizard almost four feet long. It looked exactly like a Komodo Dragon, although my lack of knowledge regarding Thai reptiles prevents me from naming it exactly. It was truly amazing.

I spent the morning shopping for good fortune in the Amulet market, a labyrinth of tiny aisles and booths where one may buy all the good luck and protection that Baht can buy.

As is my wont, I wandered and ate, silently chanting, "Slow down, Marco, slow down."

It was a pleasure beyond counting to tread streets that I know, and now love, as well as getting lost on those that I do not know and now love as well.

I ate well, as anyone in Bangkok will, save the complete fool. Pineapple in Chinatown, egg Roti and sweet tea after the boat, mango along the river walk and, of course, noodles for lunch.

I have never been in SE Asia during the monsoon, but today I had a lesson in what it is like. The fish noodles of lunch were consumed at a stall under awnings as the skies opened up and dropped biblical portions of rain on the city. Thai folks and falang alike scurried about with all manner of rain wear, most of it improvised. There is nothing quite as entertaining as thousands of people hurrying about with plastic bags on their heads, while the entire city turns into an 85 degree shower. The umbrella merchants in Chinatown were very pleased.

The deluge let up enough to allow me progress, but only at intervals. I took refuge as needed, ducking under awnings and roofs with the Thai folks. A fine watery crescendo caught me near my favorite back alley tea stand where I huddled with the old men as they argued about the luckiest lottery numbers.

The skies have cleared and I have smoked my afternoon cigar on the finest balcony in Bangkok. Tonight will be devoted to another roving dinner in the street stalls. Tomorrow I depart the City and head North by train.